PLAN your stage from Lugo to Ferreira
Stage 10 of the Primitive Way is the one starting in Lugo and ending, according to most guides, in San Román de Retorta, with a length of 19 to 20 kilometers. However, thousands of pilgrims have already considered Ferreira to be a better option to end this stage. There are now two albergues in Ferreira, the Albergue Ponte Ferreira (opened in 2012) and the Albergue A Nave (opened in 2016). There is also a Casa Rural (rural house offering rooms to pilgrims) and a bar, which gives pilgrims plenty of choices. In San Roman, in contrast, there is just one bar and a public albergue with twelve beds, and that is just not enough for the current number of pilgrims on the Primitive Way during most of the months of the year. The higher availability of beds (about 75 in total since that moment in Ferreira) and of services (two albergues, a rural house and a bar, in all of which it is possible to drink or have a bite while resting) have added to Ferreira becoming a much better option as the end of Stage 10 than San Román, where there is only a bar and a public albergue with just twelve beds, totally insufficient during most of the months of the year for the current number of pilgrims of the Primitive Way.
The growing importance of Ferreira is demonstrated by the fact that since the 2016 edition of the ANAYA Guide Book by Antón Pombo, and the 2017 edition of the Buen Camino Guide Book by Carlos Mencos (both in Spanish), stage 10 ends in Ferreira, and not in San Román anymore. Same thing happens with the online camino guide Rayyrosa (available also in English).
Where to stay in Lugo, and getting out of the city the next day:
In Lugo you can stay at the Albergue de Peregrinos of the Xunta de Galicia, just a few meters from San Pedro Gate, within the walls of the ancient Roman city, or you can stay in a private place instead for better freedom of schedules to visit the city (the public albergue closes at 22.00h, and everyone must be out by 8.00h), such as the recently inaugurated Albergue Casa da Chanca, the Shiku Hostel or the Roots&Boots hostel.
When leaving the city the next day you must know that the way out of the ancient Roman walls is NOT through the Santiago Gate, which is the one just in front of the Cathedral; instead, it is through the Miñá Gate, which is located just a few meters further North, by Hotel Pazo de Orbán. From there, walk down the Rúa do Carme. If you left through Santiago Gate, a very common mistake, you’ll still get back to the Camino, as the path is also correctly marked, but you’ll not be following the correct path of the Primitive Way out of Lugo.
Starting the stage in Lugo: “where shall we have breakfast”?:
Once you start your stage, if it is very early, as is usually the case in the Summer months, it’s unlikely that you will find an open bar or cafe in the center of Lugo to have breakfast. However the first option is just before crossing the Roman Bridge over the Miño River, in the Albergue Roots & Boots; your second option is in the outskirts of town, by leaving the Camino about 100 meters to the right at the Camino stone mile post for kilometer 99,552, at the cafetería of Restaurant Vía Santiago:
If it is too early for breakfast for you or you find these two places closed, you have another chance about 5 kilometers further on, in San Vicente do Burgo, in the Bar Parrillada As Searas (phone nr. + 34 982207829) by the XVIIIth Century church, by detouring about 150 meters off the Camino to the right. Chelo, the host, has been serving pilgrims for years and will take care of you: her ‘bocadillos’ and home made food are well known, and that’s for a good reason 🙂
Advice: visit SANTA EULALIA DE BÓVEDA!:
Even though the camino between Lugo and San Roman de Retorta goes very close to an architectural and historical jewel, almost no pilgrims take the short detour to visit Santa Eulalia De Bóveda. Santa Eulalia was declared a National Artistic and Historical Monument in 1931. Going to visit Santa Eulalia will add approximately 3.5 kilometers (total) to the Lugo – Ferreira stage, but we can assure you that it will be well worth it. And if you are worried about not getting a bed in Ferreira, remember you can always call or send us an email one or two days in advance to book your bed. That way, you can take your time and enjoy your visit to Santa Eulalia De Bóveda.
We encourage you to check for updated information in order to know if the monument will be open the day and time you’ll be visiting it: it usually closes on Sundays, Mondays and local and national holidays; the rest of the days it opens, but only in the morning. The phone number to get information is + (34) 982160124 (call in the morning, Tuesday to Saturday!), but you can get further information and photos in this link of our blog.
“And what’s for lunch?”:
Many pilgrims tell us that “there is no place to stop for a bite or a drink from Lugo to Ferreira“. That’s far from being true!: you have the three places mentioned earlier for breakfast, where you can also have lunch if you happen to walk passed them in good time for it, and additionally you have the Mesón de Crecente in Taboeiro, about 1 kilometer before San Román. However, if you leave Lugo early and your average walking speed is not too low, you can get to Ferreira for lunch, and we shall prepare you something in either one of our albergues. We open at 13.00h, so don’t be in too much of a rush to arrive any earlier than that! 😉 But we would like to stress that our communal dinner with paella as the main dish is pretty abundant, so we encourage you to have a light lunch if you would like to take part in it later in the evening.
We hope that all this information helps you organize your walking day to Ferreira, but if you have any additional doubt you can send us an email (email@example.com) or call us (+34 616 161 594) and we shall be happy to help you, if we can.
Finally, one piece of advice, which is also useful for any other stage of this Camino or any other Camino in general: when planning your stages, do not hesitate to call or contact the places (bars, restaurantes, albergues…) you are especially interested in visiting or staying at: they are the right ones to inform you on wether they are open or not, and at what time: don’t let yourself be missinfored!